AW15 Fashion Week Round up

Well... The parties have been thrown, champagne has finally stopped flowing (for now), Blue Steel is back with a vengeance and the street style fashion pose has been put away for the season. The AW15 show season is over; what a whirlwind it has been! 

LFW via W

I have trawled through the statics, shows and photos for my pick of my favourites so you don't have to.   

From New York & Milan to my Hometown (and my spiritual Home) I have picked my best of the week to help with with my winter wardrobe. 

New York brought us The 70s and the cold; London was all about 'a motorway restaurant', Milan brought craft to the forefront and Paris was all about new beginnings. 

New York

Via Vogue

New York was by all accounts freezing, and the layers were reflected in the presentation of Elizabeth & James. The colours were in the most pleasing shade of Navy, Grey and Black; all of my favourite hues.


Their silhouette was loose and relaxed, with a hint of wit. This is collection for AW15 is a perfect addition for a chic and formal work wardrobe with the ever present nod to the 70s in the form of wide legged trousers and turtlenecks.
Another favourite of mine from NYFW was the nonchalant glamour of Rosie Assoulin. This felt like the most modern interpretation of the 70s so far. It dripped luxury, from the rich Emeralds and Ruby, to sleek peplums and cropped flares.

Via Vogue

  I want it all; if it were 1975 right now I would be head to to toe in this collection and fighting Bianca Jagger for that amazing emerald two-piece and I would win! We need more luxury like this. I need more luxury like this.

Via Vogue

If this is too opulent for your everyday, then 3.1 Phillip Lim is for you. This was all bomber
jackets, satin & leather... Amazing. I am a huge fan of the oversized gingham trousers. Wear with a black vest top, a leather jacket (biker or bomber, both would look amazing) and a pair of these and all of your casual 90s dreams will come true.

London

The most creative of fashion weeks (IMHO) was one filled with chic surprises, lots of humour and mountains of trends that I need to have in my ever shrinking wardrobe.
A highlight of my LFW were the modern classics seen at Christopher Raeburn. The knitwear looked cosy, warm and inviting. The duffle coats looks like it could withstand even the most challenging of gale forces. I would 100% chuck this cape with a pair of navy slimline trousers and a pair of these; a thoroughly modern British classic indeed.

Via Vogue

Via Style.com

 Another British classic and already a favourite of mine where the rich burgundies, blacks and reds seen at Daks. I loved this collection.
The 60s & 70s took precedent, like many of the others seen at NYFW. The majority of the collection was midi or mini length, jackets were androgynous and the hats, well who wouldn't  want one of those beauties?!
I loved the jumpsuits; I think I loved them so much I might be ready to graduate from dungarees!

The 70s went via a different avenue at Mary Katrantzou. The flares were present and very modern. Bodices were sculpted and firm. Skirts were fishtailed and midi length with more movement than a line up at a 100m final. The patterns & pattern clash Katrantzou is famed for were present, but felt muted. This was juxtaposed with spikes in bright pastels.Yellow, a colour I love was the star of the collection with dresses and separates in the very pleasing hue. My favourite pieces of the collection were the duffle coats, with the eye catching patterns that would warm anyone one a cold mid December day.

Via Vouge

Via Anya Hindmarch

You can't talk about AW15 LFW and not mention Anya Hindmarch. This was the talk of LFW after SS15's spectacular presentation; AW15 was full of the humour and wit that I love about the Hindmarch collections. It has given me new found appreciation of the highway code. This was Hindmarch'a first foray into clothing and it was my kind of perfection.


Relaxed and stylish, the perfect attire for navigating the 'diversions' the collection had been named after. Like the Frosties Ebury of SS15, the highlight had been the clever nods to British Institutions. I am not going to pretend that the first thing on my LFW accessories wishlist is an Eddie Stobart clutch to stick to my handbag. It was glorious!

Milan

Via Vogue

Patterns, folk vibes and vintage silhouettes were all over MFW. If unsure before, you were certain now. AW15 ia ALL about the 70s.
Gucci, had the freedom and effortless style of the era with an extra touch of androgyny thrown in.
.
This was an hotly anticipated collection after the shock early departure of  Frida Giannini, and I must say Alessandro Michele did a wonderful job (well apart from the chewbacca shoes, I can't quite get on board with those)

The colours were muted, browns, burgundies and beige; with a soft floral pattern running throughout. I loved the suits and the cut of the trousers; not quite a flare, but loose enough to add a vintage sensibility.

Via Vogue

That vintage sensibility continued with MaxMara; albeit with a very 60s feel; with a thoroughly Hitchcockian theme, oozing with femininity.
In my favourite shades, beige & grey it was sleek as hell.
Everything in the collection was seductive, soft and wearable. The entire collection would fit seamlessly into my wardrobe and yours, don't pretend it wouldn't

I'm not a believer in wearing head to toe looks from the runway, but I certainly would with this.
The knitwear was sleek, long-line and chunky; coupled with the skirt length of the season an absolute wonder.

 I have to get six dozen midi skirts before September hits.
 
The collection at Etro had a similar aesthetic, with a very studious feel. The colours were on trend; browns & blacks with a heavy craft inspired pattern that ran throughout.

Via Vogue

 Not all hemlines were of the length of the moment; the dresses were slimline and long; a departure from the norm this season but nonetheless very wearable.
Pattern clash was everywhere and worked well. Brocades mixed with chiffon, silk and wool. All warm and perfect for the harsh weather we will inevitably have.  

Paris

Via Vogue

I am just going to get it out of the way, Valentino was the highlight of my PFW and not for its sartorial choices. I am not really a fan of the label; I think it's a little too grown up for me, I am not yet ready for that level of sophistication and poise.

The collection itself of was on trend, culottes and smocks, belted dresses and co-ords. But it was all just a little mature for me. This collection is perfect for a lady of exquisite sophistication who lived through the first incarnation of the trend, but not for me.

I won't lie, I am only talking about this because my instagram feed kind of broke as a result of the finale. If you have been living under a rock you can see what I mean here. It was hilarious and fun, a complete u-turn of all of my previous thoughts and misconceptions about the label. So that made me happy (and feel old, that film came out 14 years ago... yikes)  and that's why it was worth a mention.

A brand I had been looking forward to seeing was Celine. I am a big fan of the minimalist label.It is sleek, stylish and covetable. The collection was relaxed, fun and nonchalant in a way only Celine & Phoebe Philo can pull off.

Via Vogue

There was a brief nod to the 70s in the form of skirt lengths, wide legged culottes and polo-necked dresses, perfect for winter (or for now, I would wear it now). Colours were bright, like at Mary Katrantzou a few weeks before, yellows and oranges took centre stage.
I was a big fan of the oversized bags. I love a large bag and these were just perfect. I want it, I want it!
Textures played an important part of this collection single colours were layered with ribbed, leather and woven fabrics to add a level of luxury that the label is known for.
This isn't brash or loud, this is simple, expensive elegance.

Via Vogue

That luxury was seen again at Balenciaga.
The collection was, like Valentino felt a little grown up; but it
had a harder edge that Valentino lacked.
Structured 'New Look' Style pencil skirts were juxtaposed with metallics, brocades and tweeds trimmed in fur.

The silhouette felt like an update to the 'New Look'; Bubble jackets and slimline Capri pants took were the look of the day in wonderfully luxurious shades of charcoal, white & grey. 

I did like this, but I felt like this was too mature for me, after looking forward to seeing this collection for months. The accessories were great but felt a little out of sync with the collection.


Street Style for this season were second to none too.
Street Style during fashion season is becoming more and more important, it seems foolhardy not to cover the best bits.

Clockwise: London,Paris, Milan, London,Milan,Paris

Generally, fellow bloggers and buyers were akin with the trend precedent set in NYFW. Wide legged trousers, oversized collars and polo necks were everywhere. the occasional floppy hat were spotted too. The only buck against the trend was the colour. It was EVERYWHERE.
It was refreshing to see when it was so bloody cold, at least it made you feel like SS15 were here! So get your colours out now, it will make you feel warmer, even if the wind-chill want you to feel differently.

So there you have it. You should now be fully informed for AW15. May you swan off into the sunset with your wide legged trousers and your midi skirts. I am drafting my shopping list now!